Exiled Chinese author Ma Jian--author of one of my favorite books of 2008, the angry and exotic Beijing Coma--revisits Tiananmen Square, twenty years after the Chinese government suppressed a massive student protest.
Two thousand years ago, contemplating the relentless flow of time, Confucius gazed down at a river and sighed, "What passes is just like this, never ceasing day or night ..." In China, time can feel both frozen and unstoppable at the same time. The Tiananmen massacre that 20 years ago ravaged Beijing, killed thousands of unarmed citizens, and altered the lives of millions, seems now to be locked in the 20th century, forgotten or ignored, as China continues to hurtle blindly towards its future.
The amnesia to which China has succumbed is not the result of natural memory-loss but of state-enforced erasure. China's Communist regime tolerates no mention of the massacre. But Tiananmen Square, and other sites connected with the events of 1989, still remain charged with memory. When the written and spoken word is censored, the urban landscape becomes a nation's only physical link to the past.


